Today I have a lovely tutorial for you, whoops that sounds pretty vain, but it’s a highly requested tutorial, how to remove the center back seam on the Belladone dress. This tutorial is for the Belladone dress but you can go and copy the principle to every dress pattern you own, as long als het center back seam is completely straight.
If you click on the pictures you’ll get a big one with al the information you need, first in Dutch and then in English. I you prefer to read everything at once, just scroll down.
Let’s do this!
- Cut off 1,5 cm of the center back on the pattern, both on the bodice and the skirt. If you use a pattern where you should add the seamallowance yourself, then you should add it everywhere except for the center back seam. Please note that you can only do this if your center back seam is completely straight. It it’s curved you can’t do, otherwise you would be getting fit issues.
- Take some tracing paper and trace the outline from 5 cm into the center back seam untill 5cm into the shoulder seam
- Take a ruler and add 5cm to the outline you just draw. You only need to add 5 cm onto the diagonal part
- Cut it out and check if your freshly draftig facing fits
- Put the pattern pieces on the fabric fold and cut away
- Iron fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the facing
- And iron a small part of interfacing onto only the corner of the back bodice. This will help stabelise the corner
- If you would like to zigzag or serge the facing, the time is now, only do this to the seam that will be visible in the end. After serging, pin it right sides together
- To create a nice sharp corner, draw a straight line corner to corner
- Now it’s time to sew, remember this pattern has 1,5cm seam allowance. The same as most patterns
- When you reach the corner, it’s time to turn you fabric (you can find a video tutorial here)
- Flip the pressure foot up while the needle is still in the fabric
- Turn the fabric 90 degrees
- Flip the foot back down and continue stichting
- Now it’s time to snip-snip into the corner, make a still right untill where you stitched in the corner. Be very carefull not to cut the thread. As you can tell from this picture I decided to stitch and extra time on the corner. You don’t have to do this, but it makes me feel more safe. I sewed about 3 cm on either side of the corner
- Trim the seam allowance. You should cut off about 1cm
- Pop the facing in, give it a good press, and tadaa, isn’t that looking great?
- Topstitch it. If you don’t like the look of it you should blind stitch it. If you don’t stitch it, it will flip out all the time. Because of the shape I wouldn’t recommend understitching
- This is how it looks on the inside
- And on the outside, btw, the zip is in the side seam now
- I used the same method and made facing for the top back bodice. I like it if everything looks balanced
- Victory! If you use the tutorial, I would love to see your dress! Send me and e-mail or leave a link in the comments. You can find my finished dress here
If you use the tutorial, I would love to see your dress! Send me and e-mail or leave a link in the comments You can find my finished dress here. The pattern is for sale on Deer & Doe’s webshop.
I hope you enjoyed it!
Btw, I’m thinking about making some video tutorials about how I make this dress. Not what’s in the booklet, but how I like to make it. Would you use it?
Until then you can check out my other videos.